Friday, August 5, 2022

To Cook - Part 3: Eggs

Eggs are one of my favorite things to cook.

Eggs are relatively cheap as an ingredient, very versatile, and healthy. They also are great way to learn and improve cooking skills, and are pretty forgiving. If you mess up making an omelet, you can easily turn it into scrambled eggs. If you crack open an egg for fried eggs and break the yolk, you can easily turn it into scrambled eggs. If you flip eggs to make them over-easy and mess up the flip, you can quickly turn them into scrambled eggs. In short when you learn how to cook eggs, you will likely make a lot of scrambled eggs. 

Put a little salt and pepper and your favorite hot sauce in those eggs and put it over toast—all good. Or if you want to get a little fancy, add some caviar and crème fraîche (I've never actually done this, but it sounds like a good idea).

Some chefs have very strong opinions about eggs. Some people think an omelet is overcooked if it has any brown and the inside isn't soft and runny. Others think scramble eggs must be cooked over low heat and have tiny soft curds, almost like porridge. I get that there is a level of cooking mastery in getting a perfect French-style omelet or this liquidy scrambled eggs, but it doesn't have to be that way. I love cooking eggs because you can do whatever you want, and more likely than not, it will be edible. It's not about doing it right, it's about cooking the kind of eggs that you like.

So let's get into some specifics.  

Fried eggs/Over easy eggs 

Warm your pan, put a little oil, crack an egg in a small bowl, and pour the eggs into the pan. Cover it for fried eggs so the water in the egg can create steam to cook the top of the egg. For over easy, flip the egg when the egg is cooked on the bottom and release it from the pan. If you shake your pan and the egg moves, it's ready to flip; if it's not, wait.  

If you want to get fancy, cook your fried eggs in butter and baste (spoon the butter) onto the top of the eggs to cook the top. When you put your egg in the pan, if it splatters, it's okay. It's just the water in the egg fighting against the hot oil. Turn down the heat in the pan, or wait. The splattering will lessen over time.  

Both types of eggs are lovely with a piece of buttered toast. Dipping the toast in the yolk and using the egg white as topping for the toast. Wonderful. My favorite way to enjoy a fried egg is to put it on top of a warm bowl of Chinese steamed rice (easily one of the greatest foods of all time). Mix a spoonful of soy sauce into the yolk and stir it up to create a wonderful sauce. There is one of my favorite dishes of all time.  


Scrambled eggs

Crack some eggs into a bowl, beat them with a fork until it's smooth and looks even. Pour them into the pan with some kind of fat. Olive oil works, lard works, and so does butter. Stir it a lot to make little curds, or fold it gently to make sheets of scrambled eggs. Do it over high heat to cook more solid pieces of eggs, or cook it slowly over low heat to make for a more even texture. You can add milk or water the egg while you beat them, but it doesn't really make a difference. Add more oil or butter if the eggs stick to the pan too much, or turn up the heat up on the pan.  

There are endless possibilities and variations with scrambled eggs, so experiment and try different things and see what you like. Mix in some cheese or bacon bits to the eggs. Try different seasonings. The nature of eggs and the relationship between heat, fat, and protein start becoming very clear when you begin cooking scrambled eggs and really pay attention to what is happening in your pan.  

My favorite way to cook scrambled eggs is with butter over medium heat. Eggs love being cooked in butter. First, I let the better melt but not brown, I pull in the sides as they are firm and end up pieces of eggs about the size of cheese curds. Then, I pull the eggs out of the pan while the egg is firm but not browned. Then I season with salt and pepper and hot sauce. 


Omelet 

The ultimate in cooking eggs is the omelet. It's one of the hardest eggs dishes to figure out, but it's a lot of fun and very rewarding. Pepin teaches it well in this video, so I'm not going to try to describe the process:  

 

Some tips:   
  • Get the pan hot. Wait and be patient. You need the heat to get things rolling and moving like they do in Pepin's pan.   
  • Have everything ready to go. Ensure you have toppings, seasonings, and the serving plate reading to go. The cooking of an omelet requires your complete attention, and things can move fast, so do your prep so you don't have to leave your pan.   
  • Get a good pan. If you can't remember the last time you got a new non-stick pan, you probably need a new one. Also, get a new one if there are scratches on the pan or visible wear. I get mid-priced non-sticks and replace them every 6-8 months.   
  • Practice. Every night after I put my children to be for about two months one summer, I made an omelet. I messed up a lot and made a lot of scrambled eggs. However, it was a lot of fun and I got really good at making omelets.

When you cook eggs a lot, you begin to understand the possibilities in cooking. A hard-boiled egg is a very different dish than a poached egg, and the fact that they come from the same ingredient speaks to the imagination of cooking and the diversity of techniques in cooking. In addition, so much you learn from cooking eggs applies to other foods. For example, the thing where fried eggs are release from a pan when they're ready to flip, this applies to all meats when searing them.  

Buy some eggs, get a good non-stick pan, stick, and butter, and have fun.  

The worst thing that happens is that you end up with scrambled eggs.

No comments:

Post a Comment